Moskovsky train station in St. Petersburg
Part of the fun of traveling is to see the world with all modes of transportation. The second phase of our around the world trip was mainly by train. The overnight sleeper train from St. Petersburg to Moscow was the first of several from St. Petersburg, European Russia to Hong Kong.
There was nothing luxurious about this portion of our trip. First off, we packed our bags, walked to the metro station to take the subway from Azimut Hotel to Moskovsky Metro station with our tour leader Erik at 9 pm.
Our train, the Smena, train 25A was scheduled to leave at 11:36 pm. Moskovsky station was almost empty by 10:30 pm. The provodnitsa (female attendant) was standing at the entrance with her flashlight ready to check our passports and train tickets. As for us, we were ready to board the Moscow-bound train and go to bed.
Smena train platform in Moskovsky station St. Petersburg
Once we found the car we immediately squeezed into the 4-berth cabin. Inside were four boxes of breakfast and a magazines/newspapers on the tiny table. Each seat came with a set of sheets, hand towel and pillowcase inside a clear plastic.
Smena is an average class train compared to the legendary Red Arrow deluxe train that runs on the same route but a few minutes later. Smena has 2-berth and 4-berth sleepers. Each coach has nine compartments (cabin). At either end of the coach are the toilets with a washbasin. The samovar, a metal container with boiling water was located on the right-end of the coach along with the provodnitsa’s cabin.
The aisle and man waiting for his turn to the washroom.
Samovar
The process of bed making in the train was simple if you have the lower berth. Bags were stored below the lower berths. With the cabin door closed and window curtain drawn we pretty much felt like we were in a hostel… a moving and rumbling accommodation for the night.
By 6 am the next morning we were awake, ready to have breakfast. The scenery outside changed with rows and rows of apartments and Smena, our train was just outside of Moscow. It took about eight hours to chug through the 450-mile trip. If speed is your concern you may want to take the Sapsan high-speed day train between these cities. It only takes three hours 55 minutes.
Breakfast in a box provided by Russian Railway
You can purchase tickets from these websites:
Real Russia
Russian Railways
As for our travels we paid for a fully escorted tour with Tucan Travel and they made all our travel arrangements from St. Petersburg to Moscow and beyond. Initially, I contacted Real Russia and they were helpful.
Smena arrived at Leningradsky Train Station Moscow just after 7 am.
We flew into Moscow in the morning, stored our bags at the train station's secure warehouse, and went off to see Red Square and NOT buy the overpriced souvenirs there. When we returned, we got the bags and found a place to sit on the ground.
One of our group pulled out his guitar and began to sing. This attraced a friendly crowd, including a woman who obviously wanted to practice her English. Russians learn English in school, but practice with a non-native speaker is not very helpful.
This woman also kindly took us down the street (and into an alley - I'm not sure that was wise) to purchase kielbasa, cheese, bread, water and soft drinks. Our train only provided got water, cups, and tea bags.
Or coupe' - or berth, also had four beds, but luggage storage was above the door. We were given warm bedding, and found it easy to sleep, lulled by the gentle rocking.
Paul got up a couple times in the night and ventured out to a couple stations where locals gathered to sell food and trinkets. He bought our daughter a stuffed daisy that said "I love you" in Russian when squeezed.
We meet several nice folks on the train in the hall and the restaurant car. There wasn't much selection there, and it was pricey, but the beer and conversation flowed as we drank our tea and water.
We also enjoyed seeing the stretches of countryside and villages along our 24 hour route East from Moscow to Perm. We sat at the table by our window and ate and watched the beautiful forests, fields and villages go by. We hope to return this fall.
Thanks for sharing your experience on the Russian train from Moscow to Perm. I hope you will go again this fall. 🙂