From León to San Juan del Sur — with a Stop at Masaya Volcano
To reach our next destination, San Juan del Sur, we once again hired a driver through Daytrip.com - Claudio, the same driver who had picked us up from Managua airport.
It was another rainy Nicaraguan morning as we left León behind and drove south. Passing through Managua, I couldn't help but notice neighborhoods that looked similar to suburban developments in the U.S. One standout was Condominio El Cortijo de la Sierra, a gated community where German-made BMWs and large SUVs exited under a grand arched entrance — a glimpse into Nicaragua's higher-income enclaves.
A Stop at Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya
Our first stop was Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya, one of Nicaragua's most dramatic natural wonders. Known as La Boca del Infierno ("The Mouth of Hell"), the active volcano is famous for its Santiago Crater, where molten lava can sometimes be seen glowing at night.
The park's museum is modest but worth a look, with exhibits on geology, local legends, and the history of eruptions. On the rainy day we visited, we were among only a handful of visitors — perhaps the weather or the current restrictions kept crowds away.
Crater Access Today
In the past, visitors could hike right to the edge of the Santiago Crater. Today, for safety reasons, direct crater access is still closed. Instead, there are limited trails like El Comalito, which give a more distant view.
I was disappointed that we didn't get to see the crater. However, the museum still gave us an intimate look into Nicaragua's volcanic story.
After leaving the museum, I crossed the road to check out a cluster of about five souvenir shops. With no tourists in sight, I stepped into one and, using my broken Spanish, bought a bracelet for $2, a hand-embroidered notebook, and a few keychains. Supporting the local community, even in a small way, felt important.
The Road South to San Juan del Sur
From Masaya, we continued south in the rain — about a two-hour drive. Along the way, we caught glimpses of Lake Nicaragua (also known as Cocibolca or Granada Lake), with its vast, endless waters. Claudio pointed out the fertile farmland and told us about Ometepe Island, formed by two towering volcanoes in the middle of the lake, reachable by ferry at San Jorge, near Rivas.
It takes around an hour to get there by ferry from San Jorge. We passed through Rivas, then turned southwest toward San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua's Pacific jewel.
Staying in San Juan del Sur
For our stay, I had booked a two-bedroom apartment through Booking.com. While reviews were positive, my experience was mixed. The apartment was large, with two balconies and an ocean view across the street. Still, it felt deserted, under-equipped, and not entirely clean.
The host, who probably lives in the U.S., accepted only cash, though I managed to pay via Venmo. While the space had potential, I felt safer if I were in a more traditional hotel or boutique property.
If I return, I'd choose somewhere closer to nature and with better amenities, like La Santa María Boutique Hotel & Residences, TreeCasa Resort (a unique eco-lodge nestled in the hills), or even Rancho Santana on the coast.
Life in San Juan del Sur
It rained every afternoon till evening for a few hours during our two-night stay, so we spent much of the time indoors. That said, we still enjoyed exploring coffee shops, restaurants, and early morning beach walks when the skies cleared.
On Paseo del Rey, the seaside promenade, you'll find many popular restaurants. We liked breakfast at Restaurante Lago Azul, where I noticed students having one-on-one Spanish lessons in the corner.
Other favorites along the bay include El Timón, La Terraza, and La Lancha, all with ocean views.
Breakfast in Nicaragua always means gallo pinto — the national dish of rice and beans. Served with fried eggs, queso frito (fried cheese), and sweet plantains (maduros), it's a hearty, comforting way to start the day. And then, of course, there's the coffee.
Nicaraguan Coffee: Bold, Fruity, and World-Class
I'm a bit of a coffee snob. I only grind beans fresh and usually buy small-batch specialty roasts back home. Still, I was blown away by Nicaraguan coffee. Grown mainly in the northern highlands of Matagalpa, Jinotega, and Nueva Segovia, the beans are Arabica, known for their balanced flavor with notes of fruit, chocolate, and floral undertones. Many are shade-grown and organic.
At La Tostaderia, a specialty coffee shop in San Juan del Sur, I enjoyed an exceptional cup. I brought home a bag of medium roast, and it remains one of my favorite souvenirs. If you're a coffee lover, Nicaragua belongs on your tasting map; it's every bit as good as the better-known coffees of Costa Rica or Panama, but often overlooked.
Beaches of San Juan del Sur
While the town beach is scenic, it's not the best for swimming. For cleaner sand and surf, locals and visitors head to nearby beaches:
- Playa Maderas: A favorite for surfing, about 20 minutes north of town.
- Playa Hermosa: Wide and beautiful, also great for surfing.
- Playa Marsella: Quieter and more family-friendly.
- Playa Yankee: Less crowded, strong waves, popular with advanced surfers.
Even if you're not surfing, these beaches are worth visiting for their beauty and atmosphere.
Final Thoughts on San Juan del Sur
Despite the rain, I found San Juan del Sur charming — a mix of surf town energy, expat community gatherings (we saw a retirees' meetup at Henry's Iguana Beach Bar), and authentic Nicaraguan culture.
With better weather, this would be a perfect place to enjoy the sunsets, the bay, and nearby beaches.
If you plan a trip, I recommend the dry season (November to April) when the skies are clearer, and the Pacific coast shows off its true beauty.
Next up: join me in Granada, Nicaragua's colonial gem, in part three of this series.
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