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Claudia Looi

Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Chile

By Claudia Looi 3 Comments

17 Mar
Sign to Torres del Paine

Road sign in Puerto Natales

To me, Torres del Paine National Park is a magical place. The awe-inspiring variation in its landscape is all contained in 561,000 acres (227,000 hectares) of preserved land. See the jaw-dropping mountains of Patagonia, glaciers, pure glacial lakes, thunderous waterfalls, pre-Andean shrubs, vertical granite needles, the Andean desert, jagged peaks of Cuernos del Paine, and deciduous forests. Animals roam freely and a variety of indigenous animals, like guanacos, are visible in some areas. Count it your lucky day if you see the rare Andean deer (huemul).

As a geography enthusiast, a person inspired by the world map and topography, Torres del Paine National Park's map marked with green, blue, brown, white and grey areas came alive in front of my eyes, as the tour guide pointed to the lakes, mountains and vertical granite needles.

I didn't hike the W circuit or do anything strenuous while visiting Torres del Paine. I took the easy route by joining a guided tour with Julian, a Patagonian mate-sipping tour guide. The day before our tour, we walked around Puerto Natales' main streets in search of a tour to Torres del Paine. The tourist town is filled with tour companies, outdoor gear retailers and hostels. Without any prior research, we booked the tour with the first tour company we visited.

Map Torres del Paine

Claudia in Torres del Paine

That's me!

The tour agent gave us a few basic instructions in his broken English: You must wear good shoes and layered clothing. Be prepared for unpredictable weather. Torres del Paine can have four seasons in one day. You will experience different microclimates. Expect bright sunshine, freezing temperatures and heavy rain within a few minutes apart.

Paine Massif or Cordillera del Paine is Torres del Paine's top attraction. We were driven to a few different locations to view this independent mountain system. In between sipping his mate (a type of tea popular in Uruguay and Argentina served in a special cup with a straw, usually refilled with hot water and shared among friends from the same cup), Julian, the tour guide, spoke through the microphone explaining the formation of the 12 million year old Paine Massif. Sedimentary rocks are at the highest part of the Cordillera del Paine and the base is made of granite. These massive rock formations had been moulded by glaciers over time.

Torres del Paine LAGUNA AMARGA

We stopped to look at the reflection in a lake of Paine Massif, walked to a platform to observe the waterfalls, pre-Andean shrubs, Magellanic deciduous forest, Patagonian steppes, Andean desert, and groups of guanacos walking down the valley. Huge parts of the park were scorched by fire because of the act of one irresponsible tourist in 2011. About 40,000 acres of land were affected. It may take another 50 years for the native plants to mature.

photo(10)

Another view of Torres del Paine

Waterfall and view of Paine Massif

photo(12)

Burnt trees and scrubs

Pumas, guanacos, foxes, condors, huemules, flamingoes, swans and nandu still roam in Torres del Paine though some of these species are endangered. Before Torres del Paine was declared as a national park, parts of the area were inhabited lands, where gauchos raised their sheep and tended their land. Most of the estancias are gone and cleared land are still visible in parts of the Park. On our tour, we were lucky to see a baby puma sleeping under a bush.

Guanaco

guanacos

Paine Massif

Hotels and camping sites are available inside Torres del Paine Park. Here is one by the lake which I think I would enjoy.

Refugio

Refugio Torres del Paine

A typical Torres del Paine guided tour includes a stop at Milodon Cave before heading to see Lago Sarmiento to get the first view of Paine Massif, then onto other parts surrounding Paine Massif. Lago Pehoe, Cascada and Lago Grey are the other stops. Lago Grey and Glacier is another astounding spot in the Park.

photo(16)

Largo Grey and Glacier

Lago Grey Torres del Paine

Lago Grey's clear water

Glacier Gray

On our drive back to the hotel in Puerto Natales, I vowed to return to Torres del Paine after our trip around the world. I only saw the highlights from a comfortable tour bus. I think the next time I'll hike the W circuit. Seeing the burnt landscape and touching the scorched scrubs pained me. Nature has its way to talk to us. We need to preserve this land for the future generations. Once it is gone it will be hard to rebuild.

burnt

Burnt tree

me

Me among the burnt scrubs

Note: The original article was written on March 30, 2013. This is an updated version.

Want to know where we stay in Puerto Natales? It's inside this eBook (just $2.99 per eBook)...

South America accommodation guide

Filed Under: Chile, South America Tagged With: Chile, National Park, Torres del Paine

« The Sight and Sounds of Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina
4 Places to Dine in Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile »

Comments

  1. Mary says

    April 1, 2013 at 7:27 am

    Thanks for the birds eye view. Enjoying the beauty like we are there.

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  2. Tempa says

    April 1, 2013 at 9:20 am

    As always, I love having the opportunity to see places I may never have the chance to. I enjoyed yet another trek with you this morning! The mountains & plains are beautiful. Enjoy the journey and continue to share with us.

    Log in to Reply
    • Claudia Looi says

      April 1, 2013 at 9:36 am

      Thanks Tempa. Torres del Paine has to be one of my favorite National Parks in the world. We will take you next to the Lake District of Chile.

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Looking for things to do at night in Salvador, Bra Looking for things to do at night in Salvador, Brazil? Spend an evening watching the Balé Folclórico da Bahia in Pelourinho.

Live drumming, singing, and dance bring Bahia’s Afro-Brazilian heritage to the stage. Between exploring the historic streets and trying the local food, this is another way to experience Salvador.

📍 Teatro Miguel Santana
Rua Maciel de Baixo, 49, Pelourinho
🗓 Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 7 p.m.
🎟 We paid R$120 per person.

My tip: ask your hotel to confirm the schedule and current price and book your tickets for you.

Who would you bring to this show? Send them this for your Salvador itinerary.

#SalvadorBrazil #SalvadorBahia #Pelourinho #BrazilTravel #globetrotter100club
You’ll notice these colorful ribbons all over Salv You’ll notice these colorful ribbons all over Salvador, Brazil. But what do they mean?

They’re called fitinhas do Bonfim, symbols of faith, hope, and devotion associated with Bonfim Church. The tradition is to tie one around your wrist with three knots, making a wish with each knot.

At the church, they cover the fence in waves of color. But you’ll find them beyond the church, too.

At my hotel, a staff member gave me a handful in different colors. Another hotel used them to tie the bath towels and hand towels, adding a little touch of Salvador to the room.

That’s what makes these ribbons such a memorable symbol of the city. You encounter them as an expression of faith, a welcome, and a detail woven into your stay.

📍 Igreja do Senhor do Bonfim, Salvador, Bahia.

Have you brought one home from Brazil?

#SalvadorBrazil #SalvadorBahia #BonfimChurch #BrazilTravel #globetrotter100club
Before booking a beach stay in Salvador, check mor Before booking a beach stay in Salvador, check more than the ocean view. Find out how you actually get onto the beach.

I stayed at Mercure Rio Vermelho, where the swimming pool was amazing. I could see the water, but the easy beach access I had pictured wasn’t part of my experience.

The hotel was okay for a short stay. For a longer trip focused on beach time, I would choose somewhere else with direct beach access and more of a resort atmosphere.

My tip: check the walking route from the hotel to an accessible beach before you book. A waterfront location doesn’t tell you the whole story.

Save this for your Brazil trip, and share it with your travel partner. Would you choose a beautiful pool or direct beach access?

#SalvadorBahia #BrazilTravelTips #RioVermelho #BeachVacation #globetrotter100club
I didn’t know this library existed until I saw it I didn’t know this library existed until I saw it on Instagram while planning this Rio trip. Then I had to see it for myself.

Some call it a hidden gem. The Real Gabinete Português de Leitura, or Royal Portuguese Reading Room, is considered one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Once inside, you understand why.

Its story began in 1837, when 43 Portuguese immigrants founded a library to promote learning and Portuguese culture in Brazil.

The present building opened in 1887, inaugurated by Princess Isabel. Designed in Portugal’s ornate Neo-Manueline style, it even has a limestone façade brought from Portugal.

Inside, towering bookshelves, intricate ironwork, and a stained-glass skylight compete for your attention. Take your time and remember to look up.

Planning a visit? Here’s what to know:

📍 Rua Luís de Camões, 30, Centro, Rio de Janeiro, near Praça Tiradentes.

🎟️ Regular admission is free.

🕙 Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Check holiday closures before going.

🚇 Take the metro to Uruguaiana, then walk to the library. For less navigating, take a taxi or rideshare directly to the address.

I found it difficult to locate, and some streets along our walking route made me uncomfortable. My recommendation: visit during the day, go with a companion or group, and plan your route beforehand.

There was a long line outside when we visited. Allow time to wait, then give yourself time to appreciate the interior. For me, it was worth it.

Save this for your Rio trip. Have you ever discovered a place on Instagram that you just had to visit?

#RealGabinetePortuguesDeLeitura #RioDeJaneiro #BeautifulLibraries #BrazilTravelTips #globetrotter100club
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